According to Statista, the global beauty industry will generate about $129
billion
in revenue by 2028, making it a major economic player.
But the impacts of the materials in the supply chains behind many personal-care
products also make it a problematic player: The industry is
notorious for
generating copious amounts of plastic trash; consuming staggering amounts of
water; and using hazardous
chemicals
and ingredients that fuel deforestation, such as palm
oil.
While a growing number of beauty brands are embracing circular principles through alternative packaging materials and
models, the environmental impact of the
ingredients in our shampoos, scrubs and creams must also be addressed in order
to future-proof beauty.
With this in mind, two bioscience companies are aiming to give the industry a
new look by producing a host of common personal-care ingredients from food and
beverage waste.
The Upcycled Beauty Company
Image credit: Upcycled Beauty Company
Founded in 2017 and driven by a small and determined team — Anna
Crovetto (ingredient specialist and
Community Lead), Harry
McIlwraith (chemist and
General Manager) and Harrison
Mulley (business
support) — UK-based Upcycled Beauty
Company’s envisions a future in which every
beauty and personal-care product is made from upcycled materials — from
ingredients to packaging.
“We want our website to be a hub for everything linked to the zero-waste
movement,” McIlwraith told Sustainable Brands® (SB).
Upcycled Beauty works with customers across several industries to repurpose
waste in their supply chains and has amassed an extensive
portfolio of high-quality,
alternative personal-care industry actives and ingredients made entirely from
upcycled, plant-based leftovers.
Examples include water-soluble actives Barley TONIQ (anti-irritant) and
Gin TONIQ (moisturizing), which are made from the byproducts of brewing and
gin distillation, respectively. Apart from delivering up to three times more
moisture than its conventional counterpart (glycerine), Gin TONIQ contains water
reclaimed from the gin-making process; the company estimates that, for every
bottle of gin produced, the ingredient diverts four liters of waste.
Charcoal CRUSH, ideal for skin
and hair applications, takes upcycling to another level by giving already
reclaimed waste another use: Through a partnership with restaurants gathering
offcuts of sustainable oak to make charcoal, the company collects leftovers that
are too small for the restaurants’ purposes yet perfect for producing exfoliants
and powders.
And oil-soluble ingredients including Raspberry NECTA (rich in essential
fatty acids and Vitamin E) and Blueberry NECTA (ideal for anti-aging and
solar-protection products) are both made from leftover pomace from the
juicing industry: “When the fruit is pressed for juice, we collect the pomace,
dry it, separate the seeds and press those to produce our NECTA,” McIlwraith
explained.
The company also partners with Marks & Spencer’s UK department store to turn
spent grape pomace into an antioxidant active for M&S’ Natural Radiance
skincare
range.
Kaffe Bueno
Image credit: Kaffe Bueno
Meanwhile, Denmark-based Kaffe Bueno is
focused on turning waste from one particular commodity into high-quality beauty
materials: Coffee.
Raised in a country where coffee is cherished as a health enhancer,
Colombian entrepreneurs Camilo
Fernandez, Alejandro
Franco and Juan
Medina were inspired
to show the beauty industry that coffee is much more than a beverage.
Unsettled by the finding that only 1 percent of the crop is used to make a cup,
the trio founded Kaffe Bueno in 2016 with a mission to “transform this
underutilized resource into valuable ingredients for the beauty industry, among
others — aligning with their vision of coffee as a sustainable health elixir,”
Noomi Mikkelsen, Kaffe
Bueno’s Marketing and Branding Coordinator, told SB. “The realization that
coffee grounds — rich in antioxidants, fatty acids and other beneficial
compounds — were largely being wasted drove the founders to innovate.”
In 2019, Kaffe Bueno launched
KAFFOIL — the
world’s first upcycled, coffee-based ingredient for the personal-care market —
which some in the industry have dubbed “the new argan
oil.”
Since then, the company has attracted major capital infusions from the Danish
Innovation
Fund,
Paulig
Group
and global biorefinery leader
Borregaard to scale operations.
The brand’s two primary ingredients, KAFFOIL and
KAFFIBRE — a natural
exfoliant developed to replace plastic
microbeads
— can now be found in the products of over 20 brands worldwide. KAFFOIL alone was
used in Nivea’s Naturally Good face
cream;
in Sinatur Hotels’
RENLI,
an in-house toiletry and skincare label made from the hotel’s spent coffee
grounds; and Givaudan’s anti-aging oil,
Koffee'Up.
One of its newer ingredients, KAFFAGE, is
amphiphilic — meaning it reacts to both oil and water, making it easy for beauty
formulators to use; on top of that, it’s SPF-boosting, antioxidant and can mimic
a range of skin tones — making it an ideal ingredient for self-tanners, BB and
CC
creams,
tinted moisturizers and other products surging in popularity as the beauty
industry finally begins to become more
inclusive.
“By partnering with influencers, stakeholders and industries that share a
commitment to sustainability and health, Kaffe Bueno amplifies the message of
upcycling and its benefits,” Mikkelsen said. Kaffe Bueno continues to broaden
its global network with distribution partnerships with Maha Chemicals in
Asia, US Integrity Ingredients Corporation, Canada’s Renechem
Inc. and Amita Health in Spain; earlier this month, it opened the
world’s first coffee
biorefinery
in Rødovre, Denmark.
Kaffe Bueno and the Upcycled Beauty Company are at the forefront of a growing
movement
that promises to beautify personal care with circular business
models
committed to utilizing raw materials to their highest potential.
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Nina Purton is the founder of Eco Writing — a startup providing blog marketing for projects and businesses with sustainability goals. With a background in English literature and a lifelong passion for eco-friendly practices, Nina started her journey with small initiatives which resulted in collaborations with larger projects and businesses. Nina now blends her knack for creativity, research skills, and knowledge to inspire innovative and healthier interactions with the natural environment.
Published Apr 30, 2024 8am EDT / 5am PDT / 1pm BST / 2pm CEST